Entering Beng Mealea is from the south, a long path leads to remains of the southern entry gate, see picture above. This immediately sets the scene, this is what Beng Mealea is about at present: rubble, ruins, a large mostly disorganised bunch of building blocks, only scarcely recognizible of what it used to be. But do not forget that this used to be a place of worship, a place where priests prayed, kings attended, layman watched, gods resided. And perhaps still do... The magic is almost tangible once one enters the temple, especially at quiet moments. Just stay where you are, smile at that Japanese or Taiwanese group that passes by, let the quiescence return, breathe the atmosphere deep in...there is that divine feeling, as if the gods make clear that they are still here... |
Visiting Beng Mealea is an experience that you will not easily forget, if you have been at Ta Phrom in Angkor you would have felt amazed, well, this temple is Ta Phrom on steroids! It is larger, more ruined, less touristic, much more adventurous and you will be surprised about the abundance of sights and treasures here. You might wonder if the ruined state makes it hard to visit, well, this is in fact up to you. There is a wooden structure which makes the temple easily accessible, but when you prefer the climb your way through, go ahead. Warning: please do remember that climbing a temple in the rainy season is risky as stones may be slippery (one wrong estimate on how to put your foot might mean ending up in a hospital, ending your holiday!). At my time of visit, there were plenty of guides on the premises to tell you which way to go, and which ways are forbidden. I made a combination of using the easy wooden way and climbing; below is a map of the temple with the route that I followed. I started east of the gate at the picture above central, A on this map. | Until the letter C, I walked on the wooden footbridge, from which you have a good view of the collapsed central tower, which looks more like a pit now. See picture above right, letter B on the map, awaiting the passage of this Japanese group. At this position, I had myself persuaded by a guide who wanted to show me the north-side of the temple. It turned out to be a very worthwhile decision: more adventurous, away from the tourists, simply fantastic. Indiana Jones? Almost! I started with this gallery, picture below, at the letter C towards the letter D in eastern direction. | The picture below is taken near letter D on the map. This man guided me, and warned me for moving or slippery blocks.
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Picture on the left is taken near the letter E, it shows the impressive collumned entry from the northern side. Picture on the right is taken near the letter F, it is the entry gate on the western side. |